All the grafts failed. I think several factors were involved- rootstocks not established in the ground at time of grafting (they were grafted bare-rooted), scionwood breaking dormancy in some cases, too early removal of graft tape with some, grafts drying out, and water and/or the graft wax getting into the graft and blocking the union. I refuse to give up as I believe my actual grafting cuts etc were excellent, as I had alot of them start to grow but fail later on. I need to take more care with the aftercare. My rootstocks are well established and have come away again wonderfully, and I am planning my next grafting missions for Spring! I welcome advice from anyone with experience! If you don’t wish to comment on hee you can email me on firstname.lastname@example.org
I have been away from my trees in Warkworth for some weeks now, so sorry for the silence. I will be returning to them in a few days and I will have photos and updates. From what I hear the outcome of my grafts may not be so promising….
In most cases, one plant is selected for its roots and this is called the stock or rootstock. The other plant is selected for its stem, leaves, flowers, or fruits and is called the scion.
For successful grafting to take place, the vascular cambium tissues of the stock and scion plants must be placed in contact with each other. Both tissues must be kept alive until the graft has ‘taken’, usually a period of a few weeks. Successful grafting only requires that a vascular connection take place between the grafted tissues. Joints formed by grafting are not as strong as naturally formed joints, so a physical weak point often still occurs at the graft, because only the newly formed tissues inosculate with each other. The existing structural tissue (or wood) of the stock plant does not fuse.
The most common form of grafting is cleft grafting. This is best done in the spring and is useful for joining a thin scion about 1 cm (0.39 in) diameter to a thicker branch or stock. It is best if the latter is 2–7 cm (0.79–2.8 in) in diameter and has 3-5 buds. The branch or stock should be split carefully down the middle to form a cleft about 3 cm (1.2 in) deep. If it is a branch that is not vertical then the cleft should be cut horizontally. The end of the scion should be cut cleanly to a long shallow wedge, preferably with a single cut for each wedge surface, and not whittled. A third cut may be made across the end of the wedge to make it straight across.
Slide the wedge into the cleft so that it is at the edge of the stock and the centre of the wedge faces are against the cambium layer between the bark and the wood. It is preferable if a second scion is inserted in a similar way into the other side of the cleft. This helps to seal off the cleft. Tape around the top of the stock to hold the scion/s in place and cover with grafting wax or sealing compound. This stops the cambium layers from drying out and also prevents the ingress of water into the cleft.
The grafting and planting is complete! I am now back home at the Lake. Before I left I visited the local Warkworth Horseriding centre to collect a big load of manure to lay under all of the trees, before piling on the mulch. Since I have been gone my wonderful Dad has built a good windbreak to protect them, thanks Dad!
Some of the grafts are bursting buds which I’m hoping means they are going to be successful. The plums will be first as they are the first of the season to bud.
Here is an Angelina Burdett…..
This is a late-ripening apple of medium to large size. Round and flat with green russeted skin. A beautiful dessert apple, and good for drying, cooking and juicing. Excellent old fashioned full flavour. This apple apparently came into the Hokianga Harbour in a barrel of pips in the 1850’s with the Rev Mr. Knaggs and was named after the boat in which he arrived. He planted his whole barrel of pips and selected this one as his favourite. Ripe Mar/April.